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How to close the loop

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all home winning all the all the money was
yeah hello and Aaron thank you all for coming uh we would like to start now so please have a seat and um
yeah they're very happy to today's speak about the circularity in the fashion industry the year of the public eye at the fresh Tech uh my name is found spins I've been working for many years there to bring the sustainability of uh on the fashion stage where organizing trade shows and conferences and uh um uh and right now and not so much involved in fashion anymore but I am still very committed to the sustainability costs um yeah so I'm moderating Ward
speaking uh um will 1st have Introduction round of firms off all all 1st and then will have learned you're the discussion about circularity in the fashion industry and also space to ask questions
or bring about your thoughts um yeah to start just with the very small introduction about what actually is this circularity thing uh um it's not about holding hands and sperm the yeah singing songs in a circle it's there it's a quite a bit brought fission for not only the fashion industry but for the yeah thinking the way will be make we consume which produced with a do things In our whole society enroll economy mark training a shift from uh leaner approach
I just all I wanna do this I buy this product and when I'm ready weighted I forwarding address this kind of linear mentality we have still nowadays towards the mentality
where every product is already the slots in the way that it's uh um becoming the next thing where you think like the whole picture not just like OK we're gonna do this and we're ready and then we throw it away like fast consume a hyper consume and and there
a dead end and the uncle now a lot of sustainability approaches also had this kind of OK we're gonna improve things out there is a new thing let's do this this way but in the end a lot of these solutions are like but not fault and Toby and let's take an example or are
the recycling of phosphorus plastics of firm the PET bottles into clothing which on the 1 hand has a is a very nice idea OK let's state 1 product make another product all that and then but then the result is also that we have a lot of micro plastics in the environment in our drinking water every time would put a of a garment um made out of synthetic fibers into the washing
machine beeps looses thousands of microfibers directly into a drinking water so we have to
think about all these things and not just about a grade lectin bits and let's solid on the market so yeah that just to give you plot break of a frame so um yeah let's start with minor and please introduce yourself and
tell us what you have been working on and what is your your approach
toward circular version of this so many is Maria said here on uh I have a background in fashion design and in graphic design and communication and I've been working on the circular economy for a while now and I think I have been really interested in ethical questions since a very long time I've been working these giving workshops of
4 and the children who have a difficult background cyclist listing camps and so on uh in the coolant and and uh flow to continually said The sustainable as focused as I had I did the master's degree at as much variance in sustainability and fashion and I just
graduated a few months back that I have been so the last few projects that I did that are completely circular focus I worked with different levels of circularity and at the moment I'm taking part to be the OSCE days which is uh an open platform for circular economy that's gonna happen now in Berlin uh from the 9th and the 13th of June OK so er
this there always days this open source uh economy based they take place all around the world I understood this it and AIDS and international at events it happens in very various cities around the world understands that in time as in a kind of speak a
bit closer to your arm we then and you have your work and and being in a group of people to go Drew find solutions to the ended in
affection well as days is about circular economy in general so there's
going to be different fields and it's going to be the whole uh circular economy the different industries that I am taking part in an responsible for the text of part and we're gonna talk about it uh at 1 in this afternoon and in the meet about circular economy with their last summer man so if you want to join you're welcome to pass by and we can discuss this Her over 1 more question you work there on the so-called
critical studies on the capitalism and sustainability and use their spare you've wrote there about the paradox between frustration and sustainability and you have them the approach of a solution towards democratic sustainability and you can you tell us a bit more about that and the connection of bird fission would choose circularity is still in
the idea of my critical study the named vision that I had is how to normalize sustainable values so how to make sustainability the norm instead of the east like it and I was thinking about who could be the right conductor who could be the ambassador had to spread sustainable values and so I came to the conclusion and that's
fast fashion and mass-market our maybe 1 of 1 of the experts at engaging with the worldwide minus you have a true that's from fast fashion and mass market in every household all around the world and so I chose them as a possible conductor and I was thinking about how can I have a business argument for mass market and
for the fast fashion and so that they could introduce circular economy as a business model because at the end if worldwide common laws are not implemented and the consumers perspective is still really and I would say a western middle class as focus now when it comes to sustainability if you really want to spread it all around the world I thought they the we could learn a lot from mass-market and this is where I I thought that instead
of having fashion 401 achieved for sustainability for all and this was the main reason why I chose were so it would be democratic sustainability just as democratic fashion the player and there you work also on your own collection is a circular collection I did that 2 projects that dealt with the circularity so uh I really you experimented with different levels of circularity so I went from an organic products to recycle composed of will cradle-to-cradle and I really worked on starting
with the end of a product which is quiet we had when you come from a fashion background usually you start with creativity and design and how it's gonna look on someone in here I have to think of the death
of my product that before I even designed it and this is where it was super interesting and super exciting at the same time but very uh challenging and as well I think the whole circular system is so challenging because achieving needs the right infrastructure so it's really great to think over day were recycle our going to
composed but then if you don't have an infrastructure for at every turn system to get it back to the company to as composed it or to recycle it then it's also doesn't make much sense so I think it was super interesting to experiment with it but I think there's a lot to do yet and personally I've done a little step but there's a lot coming from very different you remember the burger or
an plausibly abroad to what you have been working on what is your background and what brought you here on this page and I'm not from fashion design industry actually I'm an architect and Brazilian architects and by my maker to so I am totally evil would if the maker movement in I work
with uh makers spacing real and the error we haven't and the hacking clever there so yeah producing combustion and adenoids you know about come which up but it's like be a film and made by that is in East India just trying to understand about this material and what you can do with it so we are not experts in the subject but yeah just experimenting on it but my my background came from architecture and I work with design tool
and everything related if distal digit of replication and triggered print their teacher I teach this to like kids and I work with and wearables and how to mix high tech with low tech for example doing somewhere so if she printing n embroidery or print and coding and processing wave and adenyl so mixing this to at different levels of technology and you also worked with the by
overlap yeah he has been alive the makers based I work we have about by 11 i'm not working in a man
I'm not that biologism not work in these areas there but it's I came here to represent data is maker space and I'm times tied to understand more about this material and I've been like fascinated about it because it's has so many parts so much potential and I side to
uh send these to the Mr. professors in the University of Argentina just see eating the microscope and understand a little bit more about the composition of it and how can we use it here at all other the industries are even in fashion mn can you maybe show us
and yeah so was a bit more about how it's treated them what qualities of the sentence and that's making the nation is
so who well this is the commuter actually they had a which is not really known as sexy it's column they Alicia
of life it's a very prebiotic there are a lot of pain and health benefits in you see any Teddy made of water a green tea sugar maybe a little bit of vinegar Act I understood that the
recipes really changes all the time you can choose your own recipe you can find a new 1 in you can
improve it and gender value and you need all these ingredients and with school be unique this could be that it's there is yours
is colony of bees in bacteria and you need these stressed the optimal taxi in your fabric and after have the t you have to put that authority mean 30 days In the bacteria days they were not eat the tea and the sugar and they wanna produces a kind of much from that made by the laws and did it and take these these mushroom and put it in a piece of wood for a few days and because it's made that 90 per cent of water it add water when evaporated anybody have seen like I'll bet at the ball at the Indian and actually it's a really simple uh very simple and easy process that you can do which are home you can grow your on add competency and from which a fabric to OK and the frontal now you experimented with that in the lab is
there and the this is the and the lord comfort to the market or the blood in producing
things were the Virgin brand or I think actually we use their their protocol the open protocol that's essentially
that semi just assign she put it on the internet she totally alternate days this rested and her experience in this process and be stacked with her present with her recipe but now that we are trying new things we trying to do this we strawberry t like God give us lycopene led the violence but we are discovering that a the process to get a little bit and the matter tended to yeah but I don't think now called
which is totally the market are can be in the next 2 years everybody unaware computer Chuckles I don't think that I think that the most important part of these ease the process because you change their words have a change the word fabrication to
cultivation so we you if you can grow some home and then where it you can grows often now can can grow sound fan and wash around and bigger house or you can edit out grow another kind of text ceiling and do some close but combo chase really a new material com which if every so we need a lot of research on it because it's not waterproof if you are using it on the
streets and stature rank you understand I checked serve the water and you prevent be naked so is not so good to use it now OK and um do you think this material could slot there be the solution to to close to look to make the textile the fashion industry more more circular more sustainable I think the
head of this process actually give us our perspective that we can bring the user should there should be a whole process so he can be part of a bit of this process and he can understand each step of this process and when the user understand the whole process and the industry have to change because he became lab controller status to control that he can say I don't really care process and I add the wanna a user uploads because you were this way doesn't know how the processes so I believe for example if mac and out if everybody
knows about their how food industries I really believe 90 per cent of the word the terrier because
we just prefer to forget about the process and just see the final product and then you put the use the user even need enough to put in the in the process and if the user easing the and that there yeah the protagonist on this you
change the industry in a way because the industry has got to the user and to what the values of the user so Indiana they have unlocked faramir democratic must sustainable industry because the process is the neophyte everybody can occur there I have 1 more question about what you also in in Europe and make a space you're are also working with together with more technologies and there more kind of where bowls and their power there how do er mm C is working towards more circular an early now a maker states that it's like have a big black defined for everybody that like the maker
movement and lets you want to be part of it so it's it's like have open plays that you can have different courses sandwich shops and clubs that biohacking clever have the 2 D Printing clever and we have I I created
at course that's quality see you in that ceiling that makes the that that they high-technology with a lot of knowledge it and for example for this we did the our check yesterday and we put it together the convertor fabric and some wearable components would put into if need a pair that that kind of 5 billion of pressure sensors some entities in a battery and as we see with this so if that conductivity thread and the I think it's when you are talking about wearables our other another kind of technology in now in this moment you just bring in people to that to this do-it-yourself movement you power then you're if you have people that knows how can they do everything they need they're much more conscious of everything of what a need of
that the ways that they produce of the the whole process how it works in began wearables that I I love them because it's a way to to I don't know something that we just that normally used to select and television and then we we we we don't know how television works but it would have 1 and we don't know nothing what is inside the and they think everything related if this kind of making movement and wearable in this kind of technology
brings that uh like how to understand how it works and make this really have a prior and make as near to this kind of process there and industry so in the end of the week we became we all became
makers because candle everything that think that everything but many things that you need when you when you will learn how to treat print something you the have to bowl and by a sum phase because if you need again Britain that's a hallmark if you need
to yeah we don't have a very television is broken it I have to change it you can just fix it so you you you you will you cut a little bit of this process of using a fashion that fast fashion and fast consuming and you just try to understand more about what you are using and not to our by in much yeah consuming in Indiana it's much moral conscience onsustainable in away from the thank you very much there's sorrow America please introduce yourself work
and instrument of these the close so I am a next I'm also fashion designer and my
study at you like a few years
ago already I'm um after that I was working in the sportswear industry for different sportswear brands um yet because I'm always interested in what can a common due to the where are so what technology can be implemented in the fabric and so this was my field of interest but then of course on the topic sustainability and came up and I'm the I couldn't really implement that in the work of the work at the the companies as loaded another masters study in Basel in Switzerland and interdisciplinary designed and it's them yeah In his must master thesis I gather it's
um what materials that are out there what's going on like also which are material for example um or elect the yacht milky and and some of young like unannounced fiber let there all this kind of stuff I was like collecting and what's out there and and then I did also some some tryouts with my silly on products and or I have tried to to and grow our material out of my cilium and I have all this stuff right there if you wanna have a look later on yeah and so I can maybe explainable demise William more
because the I also tried the computer but it's the smallest the same uh
Maria I we just found out that the colors of the darker and URIs so and interesting to see my examples of world and but I was not continuing really without because this is that it's not waterproof sold but it's again
it's is that it's about the process and about the idea how bout um growing your material for garments so that you can also grow sector your pattern you want to have so you don't have any waste anymore and it's it's not working at the moment just the idea and that the process that's that's really interesting and sold to the MIC William and products an it's just like the mushroom roots and them I used for example straw and core as a base material and then the idea just a need to wait for like 2 or 3 weeks or something and and then the the roots are you growing and connecting and I did a forum on yeah would like shoe sole because the energy was maybe it's working for assume and yet I also have the samples over
there and it's very lightweight material and as well not working for water and very fragile at the moment so there are lots of on the shoulder interaction of
some I think maybe skateboards so something they're working on as well as soon as I am but mainly for some institutes diarrhea for the like packaging material for for this it's good really work because and yet you just can't throw it on the uh um bio-waste and it's the it's degree him and uh you have been working on the collection there with these how how do you see this when you think about the market all power how can these kernels for experimental approaches really have come out to reach have impact and yet was
quite hard for me as the designer elements Rebecca already said them that you somehow starts maybe would be and not with the creative part and and then you always
have maybe in these biomaterials the so called a code look which you maybe you don't want to achieve the designers all you urea and it's not that easy to they had to find them as well to look at that you want to achieve but then it's the new material so yeah it's taking a long
time so it's a long way to find the material that the properties of the material and then you can maybe adapt to that look into
what what you really want to do something it's so yeah I I did like as a gathering in my collection and we are trying not to chief the echoed look so called so I will also work with polyester because of from the sports
industry so what this is also the idea of leaving maybe the advantages of some fabrics behind and then maybe the look there's also a lot of what you want so there's there's still a lot to do on on the materials that are there and so we have a few minutes left but I was surprised about how fast the
time goes um but yeah so may be true too close to circles here uh um
so maybe you can all like given a few words your your Fish and the term holders this how how this circular idea can be calm the new normal and I
think it moves I think the main and the mean shifts that need to be to have to happen in our 1st in the mind-sets and 2nd I would say that you to really start to work
together to stop thinking that the textile industry is by itself I think it's all the industries that need to work together that it's everyone that needs to shift from the idea of
competition to the idea of collaboration and the I think this is what maybe could open doors for circular economy yeah I've
seen um maybe all the
industry should start to change now because it's totally Danish that work with their affinity resources they have to to a think their processes and how they understand that the production on and the material that the use because it had been possible and sustainable to keep in this way so I would love to see an end imagine all words that the users are part of the
process and we can we can do
money and easily use you materials so we can get the parliament of the of that users can be a material and use up and get a more easily I psycho loop Indian yeah yeah I think that I wish also that the and like bigger companies and work
more toward this direction not only for the marketing reason which is sometimes found that the case and in I like for example the project of the from fighter backs the clothing of them because they really went into all the
aspect so local source of materials and then they have the new patent for the for the metal box and so and and they're really and explain everything and it's not just a sustainable product it's really thought through I would say so I think that's that's a good example in but also the the mass market is always there
and challenge because for example the PET bottles that is that the rebound effect that people may be because it's perfect we can use a fabric so we don't need to think if we use it or not we can drink a lot of low water out of PET bottles for example so you
OK thank you so much uh and the way they're unfortunately we don't have the time anymore for a Q and a but um police if you afterwords have any questions to any of us common front also have a look around
at the exhibition and that you are expecting and uh you
was 1 now all you you're dead 1 OSI-based that's also something if you're interested all more in this Circular Economy thing boson fashion or another in other industries there's this thing at 1 o'clock and also if you don't
make it this this is a global network of people of makers of uh designers of people from all aspects working together to uh to talk about challenges and to create open source solutions or share information with each other it's quite interesting have a loop it's happening in Berlin in June um so that's also a possibility to continue um
that working towards spirit this circular fashion industry and yeah thank you so much
and here of the
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Metadaten

Formale Metadaten

Titel How to close the loop
Untertitel A discussion about the circular fashion industry
Serientitel re:publica 2016
Teil 144
Anzahl der Teile 188
Autor Kres, Annette
Estrada, Rebeca Duque
Saliba, Mayya
Frans Prins
Lizenz CC-Namensnennung - Weitergabe unter gleichen Bedingungen 3.0 Deutschland:
Sie dürfen das Werk bzw. den Inhalt zu jedem legalen Zweck nutzen, verändern und in unveränderter oder veränderter Form vervielfältigen, verbreiten und öffentlich zugänglich machen, sofern Sie den Namen des Autors/Rechteinhabers in der von ihm festgelegten Weise nennen und das Werk bzw. diesen Inhalt auch in veränderter Form nur unter den Bedingungen dieser Lizenz weitergeben.
DOI 10.5446/20629
Herausgeber re:publica
Erscheinungsjahr 2016
Sprache Englisch

Inhaltliche Metadaten

Fachgebiet Informatik
Abstract “Circular fashion” is based on the principles of a circular economy and involves the entire life-cycle of it’s products, from design and sourcing, to production, transportation and storage, marketing and sales, the user phase: including reuse, repair and redesign, and finally to material recycling or disposal. Circular fashion is an innovative vision that rethinks every part of the fashion industry and it's production chain. But will it really mean the end of the hyper-consumerist fast-fashion model, or will it be merely a green product improvement by the industry to keep up with the changing demands of their consumers?

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