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Digital Fashion Transformation

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good morning um beginning to to be new and actually and what comes to mind that speak about and the future of firm of fashion and how digital
destruction will um influence the fashion world as well and I will tell you a bit
about myself but 1st I would like to know a little bit about the audience is um should I do this in German National do this in English is there anybody using a speaking here
here but that's called a candidate in English so then the next thing is that I'm just to get in like overview when talking to who here is actually like in fashion businesses to somebody have a label here no fashion publishing our OK more like general interest right so a little bit about myself am my name is carol I've worked at vise magazine as the head of digital for a number of years here in Berlin afterwards I went to business consultancy called Tom Staufen to here in Berlin on consulting large companies large industry companies have been in China and the consultants a thought starter for example I then became a father together with the with my partner in the in the branches here as well and it wasn't clear that you can make it so it is the on stage but if you have any fashion like really fat related to the questions you can ask me afterward so you want to so I've
been working for all these um big brands and I had these epiphanies sitting out like on top on this or to a skyscraper talking to all these really really intelligent people and thinking to myself what's what's happening here I mean this is really the that's that's really smart people here and all they do is is well paints mobile waves blue or red when you work for Vodafone's of it really doesn't matter for you manage or anything so I got a bit frustrated and is in the process and and meanwhile I saw what's happening with all these industries starting with some publishing for example mean working for vise was really just a print magazine and turning it into like the digital digital outlet is today also what's
happening in the music industry it became pretty clear that things are changing and that is 5 years ago if you look at this slide of number of people might have seen this already that's 2 years ago I mean OK facebook is uh in the game a longer time but um things are really changing radically in a number of industries and fashion as 1 of them that this thing on a in this for a moment the so what does this mean for a fashion I came to this old fashion topic of course because of my girlfriend she is them aid designers who work for the new theory was Yamamoto's daughter in Tokyo she worked for the halls of Holland in London and is now a designer for I this by Stella McCartney so somehow we got our 2 fields of expertise together because we just we don't have a TV we sit at home and in the evening of a glass of wine and just think about projects and some when I saw this year the but I don't know of any of you know this that's
health golf and this really interesting this is the 1st real fashion trend was solely created on the web it's only on Facebook like you know facebook and he doesn't have the region used to have 4 pages it only has 20 thousand fans actually but it has a huge huge huge regional to all big media since the has this background with Japan and he likes black um that was really the time where we said OK we have to do something now because that's just hours style and that's how we I thought about the
process of for creating a brand if you look at fashion in the old times really had 3 different components which are being fabric color and the cuts 1 now this technology coming to it what we did is that we took the whole color part out it's boring anyway and we edit the text part because that is really something new and something which is exciting and something where I know a bit about about as well so we created this
brand called the has we work with tech attack is not only to detect I mean everybody's talking about um wearables at the moment but what many people probably don't see it as well right now is that there's a lot of things happening in the fields of fabrics as well so is there uh where both but also the fabrics complement and if you look at it we have here on the left side we have neoprene on the right side carbon this uh pull over a year in the middle is quite interesting it has 3 dimensional match on the 1 side and cashmere on the backside so you can turn it over depending on if you cold or if you warm have the fabric part of it and then that was our
1st step would at 0 1st um and merge them collection with that and we showed it at for inordinate fashion week which is also like a new
concept which is not like the old really boring fashion week in Berlin but catering to the new creators and that is where this whole trend is going to
it's that similar to the music industry or publishing industry where you could become like a blogger you could produce or music which we wouldn't be possible before now you can really start to your own fashion so that's a video of or 1st a 2nd official at remote this this the eye and it it and the a half it at the end and at the
end
of this year always use each year would used
that what but group to group to the to the and to the left and to the left and to the left and to the left and right that should be left to the right and the left and right channels that would lead to a drop in the solution to the group which would be good to write it would just the good to take the time to think about the world the 1st of a bit of a delay the extent to which the hand of which could be due to the fact that the the canadian students at the end of the street and place them at the expense of chapter have to tell you yeah then at the
end so you you get the picture meaning we get the fashion show then we realized with each of the pieces we do we
have I think it's hard to tell a fashion so that
got accounted for because you have like 12 to
20 at the start of the war got down the OK that's the heart of it doesn't
really tell like all of the different levels of
the story of the functional clothing that a
behind it 1st of all of all of the stuff you see here is the is the moment of the
is there was a sports where the sign and you can London it just the whatever and then like
this for example is like reflective of you make a photo of it with the flash it's really wide and this is carbon of a stating that these patterns and we without Kevlar which is my
proof and the whole bunch of really interesting stuff which is just not
possible to convey the story
in aid classical sense with the fashion show so that was our 1st steps
then we found that the next
thing on the internet which again
no and them so that was the fashion part now we at the same time looked into the detect parts fabrics that was already talking about but knowledge wearables this is not enough you know the Gartner Hype Cycle it comes out every year it's a very interesting shot of looking what innovations are in what stage in set cycle which they kind of dug up through a lot of data and then you see wearables in 3 D printing is coming slowly from this height down to becoming mainstream and we just started and the as most of you probably did just went to FabLab met some he and started hacking on some stuff we
did the cap which the flashes back when it's being photographed sort of privacy functionality we did I
self-defense jacket so if you're 5 o'clock in the morning gherkins out of a plot goes into a dog allergy can switch it on and it's carrying electricity is a issues being jumps the guy's getting electrocuted it turns out and me being like from until the digital background where you can just go to the website and change if you don't like anything or something like it turns out the things like patterns and we can think about that so yes somebody patented then this in the states I don't know 10 years ago and sold the whole tax to the police to riot police so there's cops standing there were like electrified and well that's not really what we had in mind we wanted to uh like save people anyway was done talks with them maybe where it's gonna become a project but maybe not just for you the next time they're patterns 1st 2
seconds if you do anything related electricity there's a lot of certificates you have to think about before it would bring that into the market that's a lot of initial invest in a lot of time you have to get into their that we thought another thing on the internet that's the next I don't know how many people of you have seen this on the web 1 2 right so and being a creative which is more freely than me but being a great if you have all these different techniques at hand you know you can you can combine stuff you can deconstruct stuff or you can take something over the top and that is where the idea came from him can actually make like a fabric out of this which is black and black because as I also told or attack partner in Switzerland this mean has been shared and that doesn't include Facebook which I can't really count in have 40 million times there's a lot of people who saw this like into to shared I went to this big the company you like which is worse with the with the biggest players really and tell them that this this has
been shared 40 million times this is practically and OK I'm gonna buy this of the success you wanna to do this with us in this example it's stood so we looked into it further there's this fabric called top black you've probably seen it and that's really really black um but it's made of carbon nanotubes and there is said to be um causing cancer so that wasn't an option for a fabric itself but the guys at another idea that's a German now yeah to it can be done here the case of the metaphor finds a minor hi Hessian sportswear brand shots Wonderment we
on somebody answered that is the Internet is in the switch from the from the little instead
of and you you have to use are always stop word black when they invent darker color on the founders is a fun and doesn't in
the partners work on on the following that didn't use lungs and the some of the money you've got to apply for
a system to the users and the slanted can like kind of fun of you spot extreme shots indicated Athens continued period between the 5th and find something I see
a lot of them it's important you must have been shot from 14 days you from the
potential outside underscores the test of time was also the of market 1 moment for funding
warm distance is marked as long as it fights using finished last start that
beautiful by but if you use the cumbersome
through the use of crumb would usually distance my time yes so as I
said it's crowdfunding um we have an idea it's in the fashion segment what I don't know most of you might or might not know you won't get funding for a fashion brand why is that because 1st of all it's not scalable like it's real products 2nd it's really volatile markets which investors can't really get a grip on they can't really do forecast solid and you have you practically have to invent your branch every single season you know any of you if you don't do it the next season it just gonna have not that have any money so it's really hard to get funding for start fashion brands so funding was the perfect thing we had a good idea and we did this video the without any marketing budget really it's front of us that's the holes which was painted black all of it somewhere in Vermont of their and Hey
wouldn't of words in the
of the of the of of uh of it
half
and um that is what happens so we got the word out to a lot of media as we were on voltage wired l while we're friends with health governors of HIV proteases well days the idea let you all of the big ones including Reddit and I'm telling you read it that was really the most intense 2 hours of my life maybe this 2nd most intense 2 hours after having the 1st kiss with the b but um it was super intensive ever plan to get on the 1st page of red it and get food get at the pocket of you have to go to the toilet because you're just doing means researching stuff answering stuff translating stuff it's absolutely mayhem so we were on the on the front page we had 4 . 5 million views about it's really hard to to count that we got 3 times funded on Kickstarter and we're right now in the process of doing it's actually in we were supposed to ship the whole thing a few weeks ago we did not make the deadline and being a German company where out of not being on time but it turns out that 84 per cent of all Kickstarter's odds shipping late because you can just you know it's something you you
can absolutely put your hand on um when it's going to be ready and of course the 1 the product cool thing is is Kickstarter people they know about it there to to super easy with that and it turns out people who like black of all different sorts I mean there was ravers in costs and well pretty large people who just want to look 40 % thinner and already a really really nice bunch in all of was that this forum on it's with would start up people and tech people got base socked but these golf people were also so that's school was working on it and then he just like if you I mean of all of you have heard of crop thing but crowdfunding but for us it was really good because you can you can of course test the market you gets to reach for future and actual customers but really interesting was that we got a lot of attention from the business to business sides so they can now the investors are coming and you wanna be a part of the brand now this companies coming saying like all we have is a wearable innovation but can you do cool for us can we have you reach can we have U URI design and a static approach and of course it brings in money which you will not have because as I said before you won't find investor interest rates than now let's talk about production the little bits the next thing when you look at all is I'm going to make a big stack back again to these large corporations what's happening top down with manufacturing at the moment is that we see here which were all of you know is that China is going up everything it's the work show of the world all of the western car um and countries most of it are going down but if you look at it closely the gray line here and Germany and Germany is starting to go up again why is that that's because we produce the machines were gonna do the manufacturing and of in the future so um all these manufacturing jobs which are now in the east because they're cheap are gonna come back because robots are even cheaper and that's why China is like very afraid of what's happening at the moment and they invest a lot in robotics and 3 D printing and all that stuff you see a donor chances says he's gonna bring back the jobs to the user paid no Donald that's not the case that the robots will bring back the jobs because it doesn't make sense to use something in China on a role but we need to do the same thing in America and it's much nearer to your to your customer here the 1st example it's a Nike shoe women many sportswear companies have played around with this whole concept with 3 D printing and everything yourself and unseen until now is just the concept this here however has been sold as 3 D printed in the USA and sold to the customer services market ready that's the 1st piece wise was it's much easier to print then fabrics as just because a solid and um doesn't have to be stretchable into the 3 D printers are not
really capable of that on the other hand from like the bottom up level you have of course 3 the printers and becoming becoming mass marketing people having them at home and this for example this thing with the torso on that as 1 of the 1st 3 D printers was actually doing fabrics but there the solid 3 D printer so much much more advanced still so what you will have in the future is on the 1 hand you will have the that big companies were coming nearer and nearer to your to your home and just as it happened with the internet the internet didn't go from 1 to your home in the
meantime there were things like Internet cafes where you went in between 2 D internet stuff that's exactly what happened with 3 D printing as well you know could have the printer at home 1st thought there's gonna be places where can go with your designs or decides to get from the clouds which are probably pirated than any gonna print them in some sort of 3 D printing cafe um in the middle is a picture of something that's our converse with the trucks because sharks are really really low tech everybody knows that Aunt and um so you get all the different parts and you can assemble it's in the shop itself so you can get no you're you're laces indeed the colors you considered together can take different stuff so that's gonna be the future from bottom up you gonna go into these cafes or whatever the editor store or from our nightly for that matter and produce real issue you want to do much more sophisticated than what you can do right now with personalisation so
on this talk about communication communication is changing as well as you probably all heard about this so that all the companies all of the big fashion brands are changing into fast fashion of fashion means that you see something in you can buy directly instead of waiting for half a year so that's is 1 of the big trends in communication that means for you that right now you have all these piece that's like September fashion week then February the fashion week in it's all these peaks and that is when all the convent encompass coming out but in fact the interest in fashion is lower in between it doesn't really make any sense so we're planning to be on holiday in september is ended February is and just do our stuff in between and get quantum dot in between because you get much more reach and so that's already with the anti-cyclic psychic them consonants spreading and so on then so being 1 of these small companies which are gonna disrupts the whole business as a
sodium there in the slide before that's a big big big big big very big challenge for big companies because they're not as quick they're not as agile all these old structures always refer to like dinosaurs you someone they went just too big a constant to much energy to keep all the structure of the load was he had all these little critters getting all the food and well the dinosaurs just died so um we partner as a small entity like we we don't we don't even wanna get you wouldn't even wanna get in United not interesting as we just wanted to cool shit so we just a small entity but we work with people who have wearables or work with fabrics or have all some ideas or with guys who do videos in win in Berlin with people had the Caribbean Islands who do which are at with the ah people from Japan so it's really internationalized and that is a very very big opportunity you have here um considering that the big companies don't have a dates to start right now to by small firms but then what's happening you still have the dinosaur but you have little critter feet and they have under it just
doesn't work and you get all the innovation but how is it gonna be um for how does that that become products in the in the in the big scheme of the large corporations it's not ever permeable enough so that's about this do any of you have any questions
and it you and it anemia at how black does the black remain where you wanted it all do you have to use special detergents well 1st
of all the um to to give you
like an idea about how this whole fabric is working its biomimetic lead copying the scales of its make the scales of that's make work that well because they just have exactly the diameter of the wavelength of light so the photons come in and then come back again so the task is to recreate that in a fabric it's got to be flat it's going to be a little bit hairy and so the Trappist in there uh when the light is being trapped in there however when you work with 1 of these is large fabric companies they
of very very quality-driven especially when they're from Switzerland as we learned and then there's special standards which are sports was standards and so on and that's 1 which was important for us and with more standard they are but that means you have to be able to watch that thing out and not to enter the 100 times without the counter getting weaker thank you unfortunately time is over and
that wasn't on the other hand if thank you for this and we have a little break again in 15 minutes and afterwards we're going to hear and going on with the brand New World welcome to the trocar mayors thank you then yeah eh look
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Metadaten

Formale Metadaten

Titel Digital Fashion Transformation
Serientitel re:publica 2016
Teil 82
Anzahl der Teile 188
Autor Platt, Gabriel
Lizenz CC-Namensnennung - Weitergabe unter gleichen Bedingungen 3.0 Deutschland:
Sie dürfen das Werk bzw. den Inhalt zu jedem legalen Zweck nutzen, verändern und in unveränderter oder veränderter Form vervielfältigen, verbreiten und öffentlich zugänglich machen, sofern Sie den Namen des Autors/Rechteinhabers in der von ihm festgelegten Weise nennen und das Werk bzw. diesen Inhalt auch in veränderter Form nur unter den Bedingungen dieser Lizenz weitergeben.
DOI 10.5446/20621
Herausgeber re:publica
Erscheinungsjahr 2016
Sprache Englisch

Inhaltliche Metadaten

Fachgebiet Informatik
Abstract Digital has disrupted a variety of industries. With 3D printing enabling local manufacturing, decentralised teams and cost efficient logistics and communication, one of the next sectors to be turned inside out, will be fashion. Similar to music or publishing, consumers will become creators. But having to produce a real physical product is a challenge.

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